I am so glad to have you with us when we install the Audison APSP-G6 complete package into our Golf 6. First we will unwrap everything. I’m quite nervous and exited already. The package contains a front speaker system, a subwoofer and an amp, and it will work with the original head unit. Let’s see what we have here. All information about the Golf 6, the videos and pictures, and of course all products, is on ars24.com under ‘Find All For Your Car’. The video description below contains a direct link. We have cable kits, and speakers, this we don’t need any longer… And there it is: The subwoofer. Yeah! What is so special now about this system? It is special because it is installed invisibly, everything goes into existing spaces. And the subwoofer finds its place in the left side panel in the trunk, thus not taking up extra space. The woofer is just great. We have made a special video about the chassis without this housing already. And now we find it in a custom enclosure for the Golf 6. We put it aside for the time being, and have a look at all the other good things. We have an amplifier, we have a cable kit – let’s see what’s inside here: There are speaker cables, then there is the cable loom for the connection of the radio with the amp. This is the complete connection kit, we’ll have a closer look later. We will have to see how to route it in the car and where to install the amp. We have speakers which come with the car specific adapter rings. The surround seems to be very flexible, allowing a very big excursion of the speaker cone. This is the speaker adapter. Finally a bunch of cable adapters, from the OEM plugs to the new speakers. One for the tweeter, one for the woofer. This means that we don’t have to route new speaker wires in the car, we’ll use the existing ones. The only thing we have to do: This loom, goes from the radio to the amp, and then back to the radio, or better to the original speaker connections on the radio. We don’t need to run new wires from the amp to the speakers. Here we have the tweeters. We will see how easy it is to put them in the original location of the Golf 6. Here is some more installation material. We will show you now how to install the whole lot, let’s get started. I am really keen already to hear the sound of the system. We will also install a sound deadening kit, to give the new speakers optimum working conditions. And I will give you lots of hints on how to install a system in the Golf 6. I’ve just realized, that I didn’t show you the amp yet, although I mentioned it several times. When we shot the video about the Audison Prima amps, I was quite exited already. So the AP8.9bit is included here, and it is the heart of the system. It is a digital amp in mini mini mini format, with integrated DSP. This is a really cool piece of kit. There it is: The AP8.9bit, It has 8 channels of amplification, During the installation we will see how they are utilized. I think 2 channels are for the subwoofer, we will see everything in detail soon. First we pry out the trim panel. Now we find 4 torx screws, which have to come out. All necessary tools are available in our web shop. The ignition key should come out completely. We remove the Quad-lock plug, and the double Fakra antenna plug. We will put the radio aside for the time being. Now we have to remove the glove box. First we pry out the side panel. There should be some screws now. Right on top there are 3 screws. 3 more screw are on the bottom. Let’s also remove the sill panel. Now the side trim. We took out the 3 top screws, the 3 bottom screw, removed the side trim, and we took off the sill panel, so we can remove the kick panel here. Now we can lower the glove box far enough, to route all the cables on top of it. It is not necessary to remove the glove box completely, this would be too complicated anyway. The left edge is sitting in the center console, which would have to come out. So we stop here, more is not necessary. The path from the radio on top of the glove box can be used of course for routing RCA cables, or speaker cables, or a USB cable. You can go down on the side, under the carpet, all the way back to the rear of the car. You would have to lift up the carpet, there are some clips. This would be the perfect way. We have to install the Audison cable loom now. It is configured especially for the Golf 6. The amp will find its place under the passenger seat. So we put the cable now on top of the glove box, into the radio bay. Let’s pull it through, back inside, Let’s grab the end – it is really easy with the glove box lowered. There it is. We have here a T-cable, which can directly be connected to the car’s plug with one end, We have to open the plug of course, and lock it once it is properly set. This connection provides power, ground, and connects the car speakers with the amp. Then we have the new Quad-lock plug, which goes into the OEM radio. We use here the speaker outputs of the radio as high-level input for the amp. The amplified signal comes up from the amp directly into the original speaker harness, which goes to the speakers in the doors. Now we have to further route the cable loom through the car. This is the subwoofer cable. We don’t need it right now, but we can roll it out already. We pull of of it through the holes. And down to the side. Down here on the side we are having a central ground connection. This is where we connect the ground cable of the amp. The Audison cable loom has exactly here the suitable ring terminal. Now the screw back on, to tighten everything up again. We are on the rear bench now, where we have to remove the side panel. There is one screw on top here. There was a small trim panel, which I took off earlier. We can pull the side panel off now, starting from the top. The seat cushion can be removed by just pulling it up. There is one screw down here, which comes out with a normal spanner. Now i can lift up the side trim, and remove it. I think there is another screw, which has to come to first, another torx. After removing the upper side trim, we can tackle now the lower panel. Now we have it all. We can now re-install the OEM radio. This is plug and play, whereby we could also replace the radio now, for example if we wanted a USB port or other features. But we follow in this case the wish of our customer. He just wants the Audion system on the original radio. We just have to reconnect everything here. First the Quad-lock, and then the double Fakra. It still fits perfectly, and now the 4 screws, and the outer trim. Next we install the Audison amplifier. It is intended to go under the passenger seat. The wiring harness is exactly made for this. Here in the front we have the ground connection, And the harness is just long enough, to go under the seat to the amp. Let’s check where it actually goes. When we push the seat fully back, we find underneath the perfect spot. Installing it there is really great. The passenger will not interfere with it – his legs go forward after all. This would be my normal seating position. And I can really not touch it, even if I wanted to. During winter though you should take care not to drag too much snow into the car. But even then the water wouldn’t go back all the way. The spot is just perfect, and the installation there absolutely trouble free. To route the cable we have to lift the seat a bit now. Just 4 screws to remove. They don’t have torx, but multi-tooth heads. You really need the correct socket to remove them. It looks like this. The screws are out now, and we can lean the seat back, out of the way. Down there we find the connector for the seat heating and other stuff, we just leave it as is. We can lift up the carpet, and stow the cable underneath. We are coming up in the middle. We put the cable close to the sill on the side. Then we push the carpet back in, and there we have our connectors for the amp. The slim cable needs to go all the way back into the trunk, to the subwoofer. Here in the front we could put now all the trim pieces back on. We will route now the subwoofer cable to the trunks driver side. We simply push the cable under the rear bench into the trunk. Let’s take out the trunk carpet, so we see what we are actually doing here. There is our cable, it has to go to the left side, where the subwoofer will be sitting. We leave the cable here for the time being, but we will come back once the rest is done. We can now start plugging in all the connectors. First is the input, so actually the speaker outputs of the radio. There are some more input cables, which are not used in our setup. I will insulate them thoroughly. Then we have the output connector. Channels 1 and 2 are bridged for the left front, and 3 and 4 are bridged for the right front speakers. They have then 130 W each in bridged mode. Channels 5 and 6 with 35W each are for the OEM rear speakers left and right, and the subwoofer is on the bridged channels 7 and 8, again with 130 W. Furthermore we have here the power supply cables, which we will also connect. That would be it basically. Let’ sconnect the power supply. They are a bit short for our terminals. We have to remove some more insulation first. This would be power, let’s tighten it up, and then the same with the ground cable. Now I am insulating the extra wires – this should be safe now. Let’s see where it will finally go. We have to bend the cables a bit. It is still sliding around here, but we will fix it with some velcro tape. We just put 2 stripes on the bottom of the amp, The hooks of the tape find a good grip in the carpet, and nothing will move here anymore. It is fully sufficient to fix it this way. So the installation of the amp is completed now. Before we re-install the seat, we have to choose one of the presets of the amp. You will always be able to change it at a later stage of course. First choice is left hand drive or right hand drive. Here in Germany we select left and drive, naturally. Then there are 3 sound settings. The first one is acoustic, with a linear equalizing. It might sound a bit dull though. Live means an increased bass reproduction. But we will take rhythm, with the highest bass potential. The time alignment works in any case for the driver position. This little selector switch is for the presets. And we put it on position 3 now. Let’s explain again the signal routing of this Audison system. The OEM radio has 4 amplified channels for the original speakers. They provide the signals for front left, front right, rear left, and rear right. The Audison harness splits the signals. It takes the signal from the radio to the amp, with all 4 channels, It would be exactly those 4 speaker cables, which go into the input of the amp. The amp amplifies the signal, and is processing it with the DSP, and on the output of we find 2x130W for the front speakers, 2x35W for the rears, and 130W for the subwoofer. The harness brings the amplified signals back, all the way to the radio bay, and from there via the original speaker cables to the speakers. So we basically take the signal, and feed it back. We have to remove the door panel now. On the bottom there is one torx screw which has to come out. Let’s use our trim removal tools, to see how far we come. There is a number of trim clips all around. Somewhere here we are stuck now. We have to remove this trim panel for further access. There it is! There are 2 more torx screws. Let’s try now. Ah, there is another screw! So we have 3 torx screw underneath the trim panel! Some more clips. Finally we can lift up the door panel. We have to remove the door lock wire. And one electrical connector. The driver side panel comes off the same way. We find here the 16cm woofer of the original speaker system, it has to be removed of course. First we unplug the cable. Here on top, inside the mirror triangle trim, we find the tweeter, which also has to come out. We can also undo the tweeter wire here. To explain the wiring: We have here the speaker wires for the right front channel, coming from the radio. Once it is plugged in, I have the connection for the tweeter, which are the other 2 cables. This is exactly where I will connect my new tweeter now. To remove the woofer, I have to drill out the rivets with a 5mm drill bit. Now I can take it off. The rivets have to be removed completely. Let’s fiddle out the remains from the door. To remove the tweeter, we pull off the top, and then lift the whole thing up. The tweeter is sitting on the back side. Now we will install the door speakers of the APSP-G6. We have a 16cm woofer, and the tweeter. It is pretty easy to install in the door. You will see all details now. First we attach the speaker adapter. It has already a small groove for the speaker cable. There is also a foam gasket, to seal the entire assembly. We are using rivets to fix it on the door. Now we insert the woofer. Again we find a foam gasket. Everything is really well prepared by Audison. Let’s plug in the cables. We position it to have the Audison logo nicely visible. The woofer is complete. Now we can connect the plugs. We route the tweeter cable to the top of the door, where the tweeter will be installed. But first we have to install the tweeter into the mirror triangle trim. The trim looks like this. It has some foam pad, and this is the old tweeter. We have to remove it, to be able to install the new Audison tweeter. We break out the old tweeter, it goes quite easy. We can put it aside, it won’t be needed any longer. The new tweeter fits in there, but it doesn’t have any brackets or clips. But we will simply glue in it with hot glue. We let it cool to get hard. The new tweeter cable needs to be pushed into the small channel here. We put the foam pad back on, to prevent vibrations. And now we can re-install it. First the 2 hooks on the bottom. And the top just clicks in – that’s it! Then the 2 cables, make sure the small plugs go fully in. We will ad some insulation tape here. We tie the cables together, before we start with the sound proofing of the door. Some more tape. Voila! The woofer and the tweeter are installed now. And theoretically we would be done now. But we will install first the Insulation Package Pro. This means 2 layers STP i Silver, and one layer Jehnert insulating foam. One of the STP’s goes with the foam into the door panel, and one layer STP goes to the inner door skin. So, let’s get started. This is one sheet of STP. You hear instantly that the sound-proofing works. We like to use our bitumen tape for fixing all cables. One layer between the door and the cable is enough. Just push it on thouroughly. Of course we also have to treat the door panel, but this we won’t do here – we go to our work bench. Per door panel we use only half a sheet of the Jehnert foam. Let’s start again with the STP alubutyl. We have to make sure not to cover or close the mounting holes. We simply cut around them. We also cut the Jehnert into pieces. It is extremely sticky stuff. This is the completed door panel with the sound proofing. Now we can finally re-install the door panel. First the small plug. Don’t forget to re-attach the door opener cable. Now we hang it in on the top first. And then we push it back on – the clips will click in one by one. The 3 screws go back under the trim piece. And th trim piece itself. We start from behind, and push it back on. And now the last screw on the bottom of the door panel. We finished the first door! I was really looking forward to installing the subwoofer. It wil go into the left side panel. There is some space left behind it, so we don’t have to remove anything. But how do we actually fix it here? The manual is your friend! We have to use the supplied mounting hardware! Possibly we have to adjust the height later. This bit has to be kept loose until we finally have it in the car. Only when it is in position, we can tighten the screws. This hook will swivel into the anchor. Now we will mount it. First the hook in the front, then the bottom bracket in the back, it is tight now already! With all the excitement I completely forgot about the cable! Also there is a foam pad for the back side. This brings some tension on the mounting brackets. Now we route the cable under the carpet to the backside of the woofer. And then we plug it in. The cable can stay behing the woofer – no problem. We hook the woofer back in. Finally we swivel the hook onto the bracket, and screw it on. We push it on with the knee, and then tighten the screws thoroughly. This is really the coolest way to fix a subwoofer in the trunk ever! Audison simply utilized all existing mounting points in the car. Simply brilliant! It just sits in 2 points, and clamps down with one hook. And now: The sound check! Let’s check out, how well the Audison complete package performs in our car. Everything is running now on the Golf 6 setting created in Italy. We will check the bass performance. It is for many people the most important thing anyway. We also listen at the staging of the music of course. Now let me just enjoy it. So, this was the first test. It sounds just cool. The sound stage is truely amazing. The time alingment is focussing the music on the dashboard, in the center. The bass is part of the music, and you will not be able to tell that it comes from the trunk. Even the bass power is sufficient. Everything sounds very detailed. It sounds really clear, and you can just enjoy the music. But there are 2 things which I don’t find perfect yet. The time alignment as it comes from Audison, is focussing a littly too much to the right side. I will try to adjust the stage to be more ‘right in front of me’. The other thing is the bass. I think it could sound better. We will have a closer look to see if we can modify and optimize it somehow. For the experts amongst you: The prima software for the bit DSP is of course included in the package. Basically the AP8.9bit comes with a setup for the Golf 6, which works out of the box. Still you can make further adjustments with the software, your fine-tuning so to speak. The possibilities of the software are pretty impressive. We will have to connect the amp with a laptop. I will create a modified setup for this car now. I will alter the sound stage, and create a new setup. It will have the name golf6ars24setup, and will be available for download in our webshop, directly under the article APSP-G6. We have loaded now preset 2. This means left hand drive. So how does it look? The front speakers have a high pass filter of 80Hz @ 12dB. The delay front left is 133ms, we will adjust this a bit. Front right has no delay. The crossover setting for the right side are identical. The rear speaker also have the 80Hz @ 12dB high pass. This prevents them from bass reproduction, and makes their life easier. The rears also have a delay preset. I will not change anything on the delay of the rears or the subwoofer. We will alter only the front left speakers, and then listen to it. I did the adjustment with a voice, which is clearly in the center of the music. You can literally see the voice walking around when you do the adjustment. It would not work with Techno, as it is all over the place. You need something with a clear focus. And here is an important recommendation. I just wanted to show you some of the possibilities of the software. But it needs to be said that this is nothing for an amateur at home. It is really easy to mess up everything, when you don’t know hat you are doing. I have created a modified setup for the Golf 6, which you can try out. The upload a new setup is feasible for everyone, I will demonstrate this in another video, in which I will give you a detailed view of the DSP and its setting. And now we will tackle the subwoofer. For my liking, the subwoofer was not very precise. And it felt a little mushy, without real punch. We will crank it up now and check it out. We ave here a plastic housing, and it seems to be instable. It’s like swinging with the music. The housing is basically a flat plastic box. And it is not a very strong construction. To optimize the thing, we will sound-proof it, to eliminate unwanted effects. And you know what else we will be doing? You will agree that the finish of the woofer is not perfect. Okay, it is not obvious that it is an aftermarket item, because it is black like everything else here. But we will cover it with our graying fleece, fo rbetter integration into the interior. We start by carefully prying out the speaker grill. You have to do this very slowly, it is held in place with a bitumen ring. The bitumen prevents the grill from vibrating. Now we remove all the mounting screws. The wires are soldered. Audison has put some thought into the box of course. There is a stabilizing brace, connecting the 2 shells. It connects the front with the back side of the box. And the brace really stiffens it up. But on the other side of the box is nothing, and I can easily compress it. It exactly this is what steals the efficiency of the subwoofer. We will insert a wooden brace here, which we will fix with our bitumen tape. Our brace will bring some tension on the casing, which will sort the problem. In addition we will clad the inside with STP mats, to further reduce vibrations. Let’s cut some stripes. A quarter of one square meter should be sufficient. Let’s put the woofer aside. We stick the STP inside now. We cover all the places we can reach with our hands, where we can thoroughly push the mats on. By adding substantial weight we will increase the woofer performance. I will add some more mats of course. We will build now the wooden brace, to connect the front and back of the box. We will use the through on either side to locate it. A 2×2 cm piece should be sufficient. I did ignore the health and safety rules a bit here. This happens when you are in a rush. But it shouldn’t of course! The height is quite difficult to measure inside the box. We will test fit the brace, and shorten it bit by bit, until it is good. I have shortened it now for perfect fit. We will stick some bitumen tape at the ends, to properly secure it in place. Let’s install it. It is in place, and look how stiff it is now! No way to push it in like before! We could re-install the woofer already, but I will first fully take it out, as we want to cover the box. So I am removing the wires with a soldering iron. Let’s go over once more to the work bench. Unfortunately our grayed fabric does not match the VW fabric 100%. But it looks better in any case than the plastic box. I am preparing the surface with course sanding paper, to to better conditions for the glue. Also a bit on the inside here. What size do we need? Let’s cut it, this should be big enough. Now the spray-on glue. As we use contact glue, we have to coat both surfaces. After some waiting we can upholster the box now. We have to cut off the excess material. Here we push the fabric inside as much as possible. The cut will release the tension. And now we cut around the bottom edge. Voila! We can re-install the woofer now. First we push the ring back in. It fits even better than before. Then we solder the wires back on. So, everything is put back together. Finally we re-install the box in the trunk. So, it is back in. As mentioned, the color does not match 100%, but it looks way better than before. And now we will test of course how it sounds. We have more power and more precision from the subwoofer! What did we actually want to achieve in our Golf 6? We wanted to install a complete system for less than 1000 Euros. We retain the OEM radio. And the installation, even though it took some time, is relatively easy and straightforward. And the sound quality has considerably improved It is way better than every sound system available from the factory. The effort for the installation is absolutely reasonable. The AP8.9bit amplifier used in the system gives you highest efficiency, this means that the power supply which you find on the OEM radio is fully sufficient for the amp. You don’t have to install extra power cables from the battery, like on normal amps, which don’t have this high efficiency. And the DSP setting coming from Audison, allows you to just start up the system and listen to your music. This is a vast improvement already. Add some fine-tuning on the subwoofer, with some sound-proofing and optical improvements. You can also try out our ars24 setup for the DSP, possibly you like it more than the standard Golf 6 from Audison. The result depends on your personal preference of course. As always, thank you guys so much for watching. Give us your thumbs up, leave your comments, and hit the subscribe button! Also check out the other Golf 6 videos on our channel. Cheers! Your Olli!

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Dennis Veasley

35 thoughts on “VW Golf 6 CarHifi-Anlage komplett installieren!!! Audison APSP-G6 | TUTORIAL | ARS24”

  1. ich liebe eure videos ihr seit einfach nur Profis 😉 freue mich schon wenn mein bmw e93 eine komplett anlage mit einbau von euch bekommt

  2. Super Video! Würde mir mal ein Video wünschen wo ihr eine Anlage oder besser einen Sub woofer in einen BMW e36 oder e36 verbaut.

  3. Hey Olli. Hab bei mir hinten einen JBL Woofer drinne. Ist aber irgendwie immer gefühlt 200 bis 300 ms zeitversetzt. Hast du mir Tipps was man dagegen machen könnte?

  4. Hi Olli, super Video! Frage: Passt der Woofer auch in einen Golf6 Variant? Wie hoch wären die Einbaukosten wenn ich das Ganze so wie im Video bei Euch einbauen lassen würde?

  5. zwar nicht mein Auto…,aber wie üblich ein spitzenmäßiges Video..,vielen dank für soooo viele Tips und Tricks die ich durch die ASR-Videos lernen konnte 🙂

  6. Ich habe da mal eine frage also ich habe einen Mercedes Benz w202 c180 vom Jahr 2000 und ich möchte dort ein neues sound System mit subwoofer einbauen die frage ist ob sich der Einbau eines subwoofer s überhaupt lohnt da ich einen abgeschirmten Kofferraum habe mit einer Metall wand zwischen Kofferraum und Fahrer Kabine und was würde sowas kosten also ich habe in etwa 500 € zur Verfügung lohnt sich sowas ? 🤔🤔

  7. Tolles System. Was mich interessieren würde, wie lange hast du für den Einbau gebraucht? Was würde man als Kunde für dieses System + Einbau bezahlen? Macht weiter so?

  8. Wieder ein Video wie es nur von euch sein kann: Toll, Viele interessante Infos und danach mit einfachen Mitteln einen Klang nach ARS 24 Art: VVVooommm FFFeeiiinnnsssttteeennn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  9. Sehr cool, gibt es eigentlich schon eine vernünftige Option für einen Subwoofer bei dem Dynaudio System? (Auch Golf 6)

  10. wie genial du irritiert von den Hochtönern warst. Ganz nach dem Motto: "alles so geil Plug&Play und dann nur so nen Universalhochtöner? Egal, ich sag mal erstmal noch nix dazu…."

  11. Hallo ARS24 Team, habe einen VW Touran BJ 12/2016, bis wann kann man bei euch Umbau Radio, Soundsystem, etc, bestellen?

  12. Das Kit ist sicher nicht schlecht. Heftig find ich nur, wieviel Gimmicks es für Golf gibt. Die letzte 0815-Langweilerkarre.. Naja, kann jeder Fahren, was er will..😉

  13. 1000€ Anlage und dann so ein Nippes. Fürs selbe Geld bekommt man eine schöne Audio System oder Gladen Anlage. Hier verdient sich Audison wohl wirklich eine goldene Nase. Definitiv nur etwas für Leute die absolut keine Lust haben ;). Trotzdem gutes Video.

  14. Könnte mann auch die endstufe über ein alpine style x902d-g6 Autoradio Steuer also ich meine der Punkt wo der meiste Ton ist (das was du über dein computer gemacht hast)

  15. Um Teilweise 10 db geboostet und dann auch noch im Bereich der Trennfrequenz.
    Hat mich schon gewundert dass die Frequenzweichen nicht getauscht wurden oder wurde das nur nicht erwähnt?
    Das sieht mir jedenfalls danach aus als ob es da im Übergangsbereich zu Phasenproblemen kommt.

  16. Vielleicht sollte noch erwähnt sein, dass das Kabel unter dem Sitz nicht alleine für die Sitzheizung da ist, sondern auch für die Sitzairbags und den Gurtstraffer. Daher KANN das Kabel nicht nur dran bleiben, für den dilettantischen Plug & Play Amateur MUSS das Kabel dran bleiben. Ansonsten müssen weitere Sicherheitsmaßnahmen beachtet werden.

  17. Guten tag Olli! Fan from the US here. Videos like this with English captions make it much easier for us to enjoy! Danke

  18. Klasse Video – insbesondere, was den Subwoofer angeht und die unterm Beifahrersitz verbaute Endstufe. Genau dort wollte ich auch meine Endstufe einbauen (nur für den Bass, hab auch eine Dynaudio in meinem Golf6 und das soll alles so bleiben), hatte aber keinen Plan, wie ich das anstellen sollte. Auf die simple Idee mit den Klettstreifen wäre ich zeitlebens nie gekommen.

  19. For anyone interested. I installed this system and it sounds really amazing. Didn't choose to include the subwoofer though. I used a Basser golf 6 subwoofer case with an Audison APS 10 S4S subwoofer. It sounds really good! The out of the box G6 settings were a little harsh on my ears in the high frequencies so i altered them with my laptop and the included sofware. (Software and firmware must be updated otherwise it didn't save my alterations) I can absolutely approve this set to anyone.

  20. Oliver, mir ist aufgefallen, dass das Kabel zum Subwoofer sehr dünn ist. Würde das helfen, das Kabel durch ein dickeres zu ersetzen? oder ist der abstand vom verstärker zum subwoofer so gering, dass es egal ist? Was ist deine Meinung dazu? Mark

  21. Für das bisschen besserer Sound so ein Aufwand.. dann lieber doppelt soviel ausgeben und gleich richtig.. mit Touchscreen radio

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