Hello my friends, our today’s subject is a Golf Plus A Golf Plus is very similar to a Golf 5 Even this late model has already design elements from the Golf 6 The Golf Plus will get new brake pads at the rear axis I’ll show all in detail, everybody should be able to do it himself If you aren’t sure, please ask some expert to have a look at your repair or have check of your brakes in a shop afterwards For loosening the wheel bolts you need a 17 mm socket and some force Somebody was fastening the bolts with a impact wrench Only loosen the bolts, don’t remove the bolts before jacking the car Jacking such a modern car is a problem Such cars have only on place to apply a jack, but where to put a stand for security? I solved this by constructing a mechanical lock for my jack When the jack is up, the lock enters here, and the jack can’t go down anymore The right place for jacking the car you find directly behind the place for the VW jack Jack the car When it’s high enough, I put the security lock Now it really is impossible for an accident to occur Remove the 5 wheel bolts In old days only the luxury cars had 5 bolts, in modern times a Golf is luxury Press the foot against the tire before removing the last bolt And the wheel won’t drop The last bolt is off, you may remove the wheel For replacing the pads it’s necessary to remove the caliper Slacken the guide bolts, they have a 13 mm head and you’ll need a 15 mm open-end wrench for countering The bolts are rather tight because they are glued Now it’s open and you see why we have to counter, the guide is turning Remove the upper bolt completely The same procedure with the lower bolts, work with the 13 mm wrench against the 15 mm wrench You’ll need some force Difficult is only the beginning, afterwards it’s easy The second is off, and theoretically the caliper could be removed If the caliper doesn’t want to come out, use a pry bar to open it Don’t let the caliper hang at the brake hose, use a stand to support it Remove the old brake pads You see, they aren’t completely worn, but it’s better to replace them Check if the guide pins are still movable Clean the rails for the pads, you may use a screwdriver Remove all the dust and you see nice rails below Take care not to destroy the boots of the guiding pins The same procedure at the upper rails When most of the dust is off, you may clean the rest with the brass brush Then you may use tenderly a smooth file, be very carefully don’t remove chips You may use also grinding paper The same procedure with the caliper, all dust must be removed We arrive now at the main problem for the do-it-yourselfer The calipers are combined operational and parking brakes The parking brake works mechanically on the piston and the operational brake works with the hydraulic pressure It’s not possible just pressing the piston back The piston must be turned by such a special tool while pressing on it For doing this you need such a tool, which you can buy from Chinese production This is my homemade tool, it works like this It comes in the caliper With the large spindle I press on the piston With the inner spindle I turn the piston Working simultaneously on both the piston goes back Because the liquid is pressed back you must be careful that the reservoir doesn’t overflow If the level comes to high use a syringe to remove the liquid Now it’s possible to turn it more back and you see at the pressing screw how much we win When the tool enters in the boot you are near the end More isn’t necessary this should be enough Now it’s possible to remove the special tool Clean the piston from the glue remnants of the old pads Clean also the rear corner, before we had no access Before replacing the brake disc, I measure if it’s really necessary This disc has still 9,2 mm The worn limit is 8 mm, a new one has 10 mm This proofs my old experience, you’ll need new discs only each second change of the pads This is the first change in this car, thus we let the discs in Before mounting the new pads, I clean the discs with brake cleaner to remove grease rests The same on the opposite side The new pads are symmetrical, apply here some ceramic grease or plastilub Here along the guides, that’s enough Don’t grease the backside of these pads, they are glued, remove the protective foil Insert the pad this way Coat it with grease here and here, where the pad is in the guides But don’t bring any grease on the front side Insert the pad this way The pad must be in the guides, remove the protective foil Mount back the caliper For mounting the caliper you must use new bolts, usually delivered with the pads, because they are glued Press the caliper on the and screw in the upper bolt The same procedure with the lower bolt Press on the caliper, search the thread and insert the bolt Check that the pins of the springs are inside of the caliper Fasten the bolts while countering with the 15 mm wrench The caliper moves in position, the same procedure downstairs Following the manual, the torque for the bolts is 35 Nm In other references I found 30 Nm Fasten with the 35 Nm Down, there is no access even with the 1/4 inch nut The head is too near to the mount, you’ll need a crow foot And 35 Nm For mounting the wheel such a bolt is very useful In old times such a bolt was in the on-board tool set Screw the bolt in the hub and it will be easy to mount the wheel Such a bolt you may still buy from Porsche, or you make it yourself on the lathe Put the wheel on the special bolt and secure it by one bolt down and a second one Mount all the other bolts And the last bolt comes in the place of the special bolt Fasten all the bolts following a star pattern Another round with more force That’s enough for the moment I removed the lock from the jack and now I can lower the car When the car is back on the wheels, I adjust the torque wrench to 120 Nm and I apply it to all the bolts After finishing one side, we press on the brake pedal The piston has a distance to the pads, thus the pedal may drop down First trial, it’s already fine, there is full pressure on the system The piston is on contact with the pads Before cleaning up, I have to replace the pads on the other side Brake parts have to replaced always on both sides The procedure on the other side will be the same, you can do it yourself now After finishing, you should check again the level of the brake liquid That’s fine, the level is near the Max line, we’ll let it like this Close the lid of the brake liquid reservoir Today I have shown you that replacing the brake pads at a modern VW isn’t a problem Have fun, bye, bye, I’ll see you in the next video

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Dennis Veasley

21 thoughts on “Replacing rear brake pads on a VW Golf Plus / Golf 5”

  1. наконец то гольф плюс,спасибо,интересно будет еще как разработать суппорт fs-lll ,и обкатка новых дисков и колодок

  2. Hallo Jürgen
    war echt erstaunt , mit wieviel noch vorhandenen Bremsklotzmaterial bei dir gewechselt wird !? Bei soviel Material wechsle ich erst mit der Bremsscheibe . Endlich hast du den roten Aldi Wagenheber durch einen von glaub Kraftwerk ersetzt , war Weihnachten oder dein Geburtstag ? Haha ! Dank und Gruss

  3. Gute Erklärung und ein sehr sympathischer Schrauber. Die Wagenheber Sicherung ist in Planung. 👍 Der 13er Ratschen Schlüssel ist interessant

  4. 3:20 Do not use a prise bar to open the rear caliper as it will damage it. The rear pistons can only be pushed in using a special too. DO NOT PUSH THE REAR PISTONS BACK IN WITHOUT USING THE SPECIAL TOOL

  5. 5:37 It's good you made a home made tool, but to avoid any damage, the threads of the tool need to be exactly the same as the threads inside the caliper wind-back mechanism.

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